Elcho Island

Yesterday I flew out to Elcho Island. The population on Elcho is about 2,300 and is made up of about 17 different clans, though only 3 of these have homelands on the actual island (i.e. they originate from there). So the small town around the airstrip is called a ‘community’ rather than a homeland. Here, as elsewhere across Arnhem Land, the people are hunter gatherers – obtaining much of their diet from their surrounding environment. But I wouldn’t have guessed this as their homes are not of a traditional design, and look both permanent and quite a good size until you learn that large extended families live in them altogether. I was informed that only one man had a ‘green thumb’ in the community, unusual in that he had a garden where he was growing fruit and vegetables for his family.

I visited one of our partners, CSIS (Co-ordinating Support for Indigenous Scriptures), which comes under the overarching umbrella of the United Church of Australia. Having completed translation of the New Testament in one of the aboriginal languages, the CSIS team is now using it as the source document for translation work into a number of the other indigenous languages in Arnhem Land. But what do you do with the translated work (quite a sizeable book) in a place where a high percentage of the population are illiterate? Recognising the problem, CSIS also has a team – Mary and Sandra - working on ways to share and teach their people, with illustrated and digital resources (many people have mobile phones – a tool for reaching them).

I also visited Lake Evella, another outpost where two MAF families are based. Here I met pilot Daniel Roth’s adopted mother Lucy (actually, she’s just one of his mothers). Daniel has been based there for 6 years and what was lovely to see was the genuine concern and care Lucy had for her adopted son and his family.

Having flown back into Gove, this evening I attended the children’s outreach in Yirkala, facilitated by the MAF ministry team. From experience they have learnt that none of the children arrive until darkness has fallen, so we didn’t rush dinner. Having set things up under a spot light on a grassy area, and with music playing, about 50-60 children appeared and had a load of fun – playing games, tug-of-war, action songs, Bible story and teaching, and a supper of sausages (possibly the only protein they’ll eat in the week), bread and bananas. It was the first time I’ve seen children here really enjoying themselves. I sat talking with Eunice who had brought her grand children along to participate – for her it was really important that they hear about Jesus, and she shared how she and other women in the community gather each week to pray together for their people.

During my time here in Arnhem Land I’ve discovered the term ‘Fourth World’, used in relation to minority populations or sub-cultures existing within a first world country but with a standard of living of a third world population. It is a term that is helping me to realise that in such circumstances, where you find a strong sub-culture existing where another dominant culture has control, there are some unique challenges. There doesn’t appear to be any common ground between the two. For example, for the aborigines attendance at funerals (which can last for days if not weeks) and ceremonies is much more important than work responsibilities. So if there is a funeral within the extended family, an employee will be absent from work for its duration. Then consider how strong, in western society, the work ethic is. You can imagine the potential difficulties that arise when the two meet. It’s been fascinating!

Tomorrow I head off to East Timor. Hopefully there’ll be easy access to internet to share a little of what I see there.